One of the great things about Europe’s and one of the world’s foremost shopping paradises is that the offerings range from nosebleedingly haute to funky, multi-culti, and edgy.
From clothing to cutlery and furnishings to foods, some of the most legendary designer brands in the world originate here (Vuitton, Hermès, Dior, Chanel), and many of course have pricey boutiques devoted to them. But Paris can also be about funk and bargains, whether at discount department stores like Monoprix and Prisunic; various cool marchés aux puces (flea markets); the Marais’ gay-oriented clubwear boutiques; or discount outlets offering remainders, overstock, and last year’s lines for a fraction of their original prices.
Following are just a handful of my favorite spots to shop, in alphabetical order:
AU PRINTEMPS (6 Boulevard Haussman, 9th arrondissement, 01-42-82-57-87, http://departmentstoreparis.printemps.com) On a busy main street up near the Opéra, this department-store turns 144 in 2009 yet keeps up nicely with the times. All the big ready-to-wear brands (and some lesser-known labels) are here, along with great housewares and a beauty-and-body-products department (revamped in 2003 to make it the largest on the planet); there’s English-speaking staff and a free personal shopper service, plus several spots to get a bite (my faves are under the Art Nouveau glass dome and at the rooftop La Terrasse, with a million-euro city view). Exchange-rate pain should be eased a bit by the annual sales in January and July; the 12-percent VAT tax refund; and if you flash your passport they’ll also give you a 10-percent store discount card.
Right up the street is another Parisian department store stalwart, the Galeries Lafayette (40 Blvd. Haussman, www.GaleriesLafayette.com).
CHOCOLAT DEBAUVE & GALLAIS (30 Rue des Saints-Pères, 7 arr. and 33 Rue Vivienne, 2nd arr, 01-45-48-54-67, www.debauve-et-gallais.biz/pro/?s=h) More than 200 years old (the chocolatier, not the chocolat), this jewel-like shop with the black and gold façade has rich, old-fashioned walnut counters stacked with succulent sweets that are like mini works of art—cocoa-dusted truffles (Marcel Proust couldn’t get enough), coins (ditto Marie Antoinette), and all manner of lusciously enrobed bonbons. Try the 99-percent pure chocolate bar and your taste buds will go flying -- and Godiva will seem like dime-store candy). BTW, if you find D&G’s prices un peu too rich, try French chain Jeff de Bruges, (www.Jeff-de-Bruges.com) with a shop near Les Halles at 2 rue de l’Equerre d’Argent.
COLETTE (213 Rue Saint-Honoré, 1st arr., 01-55-35-33-90, www.Colette.fr) A sassy façade with animé-style images and blue-and-white painted candles fronts three all-white floors are where you’ll find a sizzling selection of items and brands that are hot, eco-friendly and/or up-and-coming, whether shampoo, books, music, gadgets, magazines, clothes, jewelry, accessories--you name it. In-store installations and “happenings” are a specialty, as are limited editions (like a recent sale of duds designed by various hot fashion-industry types to benefit world AIDS charities). The basement “Water Bar” slings light, fresh fare along with a variety of libations – hot and cold, alcoholic and not – and its particular stock in trade is more than 100 brands of H2O from around the world (a splash of Masafi from the United Arab Emirates or Voda Voda from Serbia, anyone?).
E. DEHILLERIN (18-20 Rue Coquillière, 1st arr., and 51 Rue Jean-Jacques Rousseau, 1st arr., 01-42-36-53-13; www.e-dehillerin.fr/en/index.php) In a city famous for its cuisine, it’s worth noting that the word also means “kitchen,” and it’s also known for gourmet kitchenware. Exhibits A and B are the two locations of this family-owned classic near Les Halles, been potting around since 1820. The flagship’s forest-green façade doesn’t look like much from outside (come to think of it, neither does the interior), but this is where many of France’s hoity-toitiest chefs come for their tools—and savvy foodies right behind them. Pots, pans, serving dishes, tableware, pastry molds, knives, cooking sheets, veggie slicers, duck presses, champagne buckets, and more, especially in copper but also sometimes stainless steel, aluminum, carbon, fiberglass, and silicon. Don’t expect anything gussied-up Williams-Sonoma style, but whether traditional or (ahem) cutting-edge, you’ll find the highest quality here.
MAISON BACCARAT (11 Place de les États Unis, 16th arr., 01-40-22-11-22, www.Baccarat.com) An instantly recognizable byword for luxury, the onetime glassworks to the king has been cranking out fancy glass since 1764. When the main showroom moved to a handsome manse near the Champs-Élysées, they got the interior tarted up and updated by Philippe Starck, but the crystal still comes in styles gorgeously traditional as well as contemporary. Spectacular chandeliers, ornamental vases, dinnerware, lamps, jewelry, and more—none of it’s cheap, of course, but hey, it’s the stuff of heirlooms. Other Baccarat boutiques are at 11 Place de la Madeleine, 17 Rue de la Paix, and in the Hôtel Concorde La Fayette.
LADURÉE (16 Rue Royale, 8th arr., 01-42-60-21-79, www.LaDuree.fr/index_en.htm) I discovered these exquisite macaroons after a very fancy hotel laid them on my pillow one evening. Founded near the Place de la Madeleine as a bakery/pâtisserie in 1862 (yes, by a gent named Ladurée), it later expanded into an elegant salon de thé (tea room) that became a bourgeois and upper-class society perennial. A new tearoom and restaurant opened at 75 Champs-Élysées in 1997, and there are smaller shops in St-Germain-des-Prés (21 rue Bonaparte) and Au Printemps department store (see above). Sip a coffee or appéritif in one of the tearooms, by all means. But don’t leave without picking up a box or two of almond-paste-based macarons, which look like sandwich cookies dyed pale yellow, green, red, brown, and lavender, and of course come in different subtle flavors.
LE LOUVRE DES ANTIQUAIRES (2 Place du Palais Royal, 1st arr., 01-42-97-27-27, www.Louvre-Antiquaires.com) The better-known Louvre museum is right across the Rue de Rivoli, but this collection of antiques emporia is stuffed to its dignified gills with treasures that could give the home of the Mona Lisa a run for its money. Even if most are out of your league, it’s a trip to browse the more than 100 vendors lining three floors of concourses in this mid-19th-century arcade, selling museum-quality artifacts including ancient coins, Italian Renaissance jewelry and tapestries, early 20th-century European toy soldiers, medieval Tibetan tankas and Russian Orthodox icons, and paintings and sculptures from all ages and parts of the world. It can get incredibly specialized--one shop, Laurence Jantzen, is devoted solely to antique canes and walking sticks. Bring oodles of euros, of course—or if you find prices here too astronomical try your luck at one of the big flea markets like Vanves (see below).
MAGASIN DE LA MANUFACTURE NATIONALE DE SÈVRES (4 Place André-Malraux, 1st arr., 01-47-03-40-20) Dating back to 1738 and King Louis XV, Sèvres porcelain--flowery, roccoco dishes, tureens, cups, vases, urns, and centerpieces in royal blue, turquoise, pea green and pink--are still being fired and hand-painted in a government-owned factory (it used to belong to the monarchs) in the town of Sèvres near Versailles. But the volume’s only several thousand pieces per year, and most of that goes to government use, so exclusive and pricey are the name of the game at this petite, museumlike showroom right across from the Louvre (weekdays only). You can find small, simple pieces for less than $200, and by the way, it’s not all traditional; some of the designs you’ll see in here are by well-known modern artists.
MARCHÉ AUX PUCES DE LA PORTE DE VANVES (Avenue Georges Lafenestre and Avenue Marc Sangnier, 14th arr., www.pucesdeparis-portedevanves.com/?langue=uk&page=0) The St.-Ouen out at Porte de Clingancourt may be the oldest and biggest flea market in Paris, but I feel that Vanves is more selective and more manageable in size. Put on your walking shoes, hop the number 13 Métro train out to Porte-de-Vanves in the city’s southwest, beyond Montparnasse, and dive in to row upon row of more than 300 stalls hawking antiques, collectibles, bric-a-brac, furniture, jewelry, art both old and new, and more. There still lurk some gems among the junk—who knows, you just might stumble across a Louis XV armchair—and some dealers themselves stock up here. The market’s officially open weekends 7am to 7:30pm, but It’s better to get out here earlier in the morning, since some vendors hightail it out as early as 1 or 2pm. [ED FYI: St Ouen http://www.parispuces.com/en/Default.asp]
PARFUMS CARON (34 Avenue Montaigne, 8th arr., 01 47 23 40 82, and 90 Rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré, 8th arr., 01-42-68-25-68; www.parfumscaron.com/UK/homepage2.html) Here’s one for the ladies -- what says classic French luxe better than perfume? The two boutiques of this 104-year-old haute parfumerie (both on very fashionable shopping streets just off the Champs Elysées) are most definitely classic spots to browse, sniff, and buy. This is the real artesanal deal, not mass-produced (take that, Chanel No. 5). Its 13 signature scents--including the legendary “N’Aimez que Moi” (Love Only Me”) with its floral and cypress notes—are stored in crystal containers and decanted for you into a container of your choice (they sell bottles here, too, of course, along with face powder). And the gracious and gorgeous Old World atmosphere will have you charmed even without the heady scents wafting around in here.
RÉCIPROQUE (Rue de la Pompe, 16th arr., 01-47-04-30-28; www.reciproque.fr) If you’re prêt à porter some très chic Paris fashion, you could go right to Pierre Cardin, Chanel, Christian Dior, and other pricey boutiques—but get ready to take out a second mortgage. Or you could pop out to one of the “outer boroughs” near the Bois de Bolougne. Here on Rue de la Pompe, the eight-boutique consortium Réciproque is a dépôt vente, essentially a designer warehouse selling overstock, remaindered, or closeout duds, shoes, handbags, and various accessories for both guys and gals. All the biggies above are here, along with Dolce Gabbana, Gaultier, Hermès, Prada, Versace, Givenchy, Issey Miyake, Hugo Boss—you get the picture. Honey, how do you think even the lowliest shopgirl can dress like a million bucks around here—you didn’t think they paid retail? Google “depot vente Paris” and you’ll find plenty more where this came from.
SABBIA ROSA (71-73 rues des Saints-Pères, 6th arr., 01-45-48-88-37) Another one for the ladies: I see London, I see France… The saints pères (“holy fathers”) would have a cow if they knew the street named for them in St. Germain-des-Prés was chockablock with ladies sexy underwear emporia. One of the best is Sabbia Rosa, a small, tasteful spot run by a lady of the same name (she’s of Italian background), with wooden shelves bedecked with silk camisoles, nighties, bras, panties, thongs, and so forth—hip and traditional, black and pastels, demure and daring. Rather than the Parisian retail hauteur you might expect, Rosa’s welcoming and helpful, chatting with you to pinpoint la lingerie juste. Don’t be floored to bump into glamourpusses like Catherine Deneuve, Madonna, or Naomi Campbell here—and also when the price tags of those oh, so fetching items make you feel a touch faint. Closed Sundays.
A few words about the author :
A longtime travel journalist and francophile, Dave Acton is also the editor of BabelCom's series of gay foreign language phrasebooks, including Gay French For Love + Hookups, The Gay Translator and Hot! International/Lesbian (which include French along with six other languages), L'Anglais Pour Les Gays, and Le Dico Gay. Check out these titles, along with his gay travel blog, at www.GayBabel.net.
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